For those who had intended to travel up north for one of the most significant celebrations of Indigenous Australian art in the national calendar, Sydney lockdown and Melbourne 5.0 had crept right up to the edges of departure. Many people had already cancelled their plans. For others, Melbourne lockdown 6.0 stole away any last chance of escape. Luckily, hanging in there, I retained my flights and got up to Darwin and back by what would seem a minor miracle.

In a whirlwind of four days, I moved through the circuit of gallery openings and witnessed new work from some of the most exciting artists practising today. Although noticeably quieter than other years, the opening week of the Darwin Festival still promised a vibrant and almost gruelling schedule of art, events and music. Many artists and art centres were not in attendance as the Darwin Aboriginal Art Fair, Salon des Refusés, and the NATSIAA opening ceremony all moved online. However, the exhibitions I experienced were compelling, moving, joyful, and above all, soul-enriching, particularly for this lockdown-weary Melbournian.

These were my highlights of the opening week of the Darwin Festival:

Carbiene McDonald, Four Dreamings 2021, synthetic polymer paint on linen 183 x 183cm

Carbiene McDonald Tjangala
In association with Papunya Tjupi Arts
Outstation Gallery
17 July– 5 August 2021

Carbiene McDonald Tjangala was one of the few artists in Darwin this week to bravely leave his community and attend the closing day of his solo show at Outstation Gallery.

Having travelled a ‘long way’ from Papunya in the Western Desert, a smiling Carbiene stood proud among his work of sensitively accomplished canvases and gestured to the paintings that surrounded him.  He proudly addressed the crowd and spoke of the Four Dreamings depicted in the paintings passed on to him by his father with a low and quiet voice.

There is a universal attraction to his work. Smiling faces at the exhibition reflected the smile on Carbiene’s face. When he walked around and shook the hand of every person there, we were all truly welcomed.

Murrŋiny: a story of metal from the east
Salon Art Projects in association with Buku-Larrŋgay
Mulka Centre and the Northern Centre for Contemporary Art
7 August – 25 September 2021

With over 900 people visiting the show in the first three hours of opening, the most significant buzz about town was this highly anticipated exhibition of metal works by a group of eight Yolŋgu artists from Yirrkala. The masters of cross-cultural collaboration had pushed parameters of innovation and the meaning of ‘if you paint the land you use the land’.

 Gunybi Ganambarr is the group’s instigator who had advocated for the use of discarded road signs and encouraged the other artists to explore their sacred identity in the materials. Referencing the historical relationship yolŋgu had with manipulating found steel dating back to the 1930s, Buku Llarrŋgay Mulka under Gunybi’s leadership has once again shifted the posts and elevated the expectation of Indigenous Australian contemporary art.

Pantutjara: Timo Hogan
in association with Spinifex Arts Project
Outstation Gallery
7-28 August 2021

Timo Hogan didn’t travel to Darwin to enjoy his win of the overall $50,000 National Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander Art Award. However, the presence of his inaugural solo show held at Outstation Gallery made up for his absence. Having decided to stay in the community of Tjuntjuntjara in Western Australia, Brian Hallett from Spinifex Arts Projects spoke on Timo’s behalf, ‘Timo is here with us, we are surrounded by his work which isn’t just made by him, it is him.’

Timo’s work is expansive in both scale and story. The gallery almost seemed too small to contain the vastness of Lake Baker, which is guarded by a powerful Wati Wanumpi (Water Serpent Man) in the iterations covering the walls. As commented by the NATSIAA judges, the artist has ‘nowhere to hide’ in artworks of this scale and minimal pallet. Timo’s confidence and artistic instinct in representing his country is intimate and monumental.

National Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander Art Award
Museum and Art Gallery, Northern Territory
7 August 2021- 6 February 2022

Having not seen any Telstra Awards exhibitions in over six years, I had forgotten the strong impact this hotly anticipated exhibition can have when present.

 This year, the calibre of artists represented was a jolting reminder of why Indigenous Australian Art can be considered the most dynamic contemporary art globally. The well-deserved finalists and winners made for an exceptional exhibition representing the greatest and most exciting artists practising today.

 Although the standout painting by Timo Hogan from Spinifex Arts Project loomed large as a confident winning work, equally grand paintings by Bobby West Tjupurrula, John Prince Siddon, Dino Wilson, and Ned Grant were stunning examples of both emerging and established artists. However, the scale does not necessarily equal impact, as some of the most intriguing and commanding works were modest in size. Emerging Yolngu artist Wanapati Yunupinu, Adrian Jangala Robertson from Bindi Mwerre Anthurre, and work on paper by Amata artist Mary Pan were also standouts.

 This time spent in Darwin was precious. Being able to connect to the artists in a small way by being present with their work cannot be completely satisfied on screen alone. Memories of this trip will sustain me through the months ahead, as I look forward to returning next year.

  – Vanessa Merlino